Deep in the heart of the Tajik Pamir Mountains, under the jagged peaks of the Shakhdara range lie dozens of glacial lakes, emanating the most vivid emerald hues. Setting out from Bachor, a remote village of around 50 households at an elevation of 3300m, our goal was to reach the 'gem of the Pamir' - Zaroshkul Lake, the largest in this range, lying at 4500m. Difficult trekking conditions resulted in a planned 2-day ascent becoming a 3-day slog - but gave as an extra night's camping on the shores of Tsaxinkul, a smaller, but in some ways even more dramatic lake at 4300m, just a few kilometres away from its bigger brother. Sharp, steep peaks rise more than a kilometre right in front of our faces, and the you can feel the glacier's katabatic winds cooling the tents. Perpetually clear, vividly blue skies, the strong high-altitude sun, and a breezeless morning gave us some incredible reflections and the will to continue onwards.
